Pratt-Read keyboard assemblies found their way into a lot of early units. At least the ppg 2.2,2.3, Minimoog, Sonic Six, Satellite, Micromoog, Polymoog, Minitmoog and Multimoog, Sequential Circuits Prophet 5, Prophet 10 and Pro One, ARP Odyssey, Axxe, Quadra, Omni, Pro-Soloist 2500 and 2600, Oberheim 4 voice, OB-X(a), OB-1 and OB-SX, and a few OB-8, EML 100/101, Octave Cat/Kitten, Freeman String machine, 360 Systems, Honer Clavinet, and many Organs. (eg. Gibson G101, some Acetone if not all, wurlitzer etc.) If anyone knows ones that are missing let me know. (I stock fresh Key Bushings!) Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. (NOTE: I see I have two styles of this in stock. One is as pictured, the other the part that drops down in front is flat instead of having sides on that part. Make sure to order the right one)
Akai AX73 keys are unweighted version of Korg DS-8/Kawai K1 it appears. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Akai AX80 keys are exactly like Oberheim Matrix 6. ALso Korg Lambda except they have the piece in the middle to strike the rubber switch housing. (instead of the rubber foot that sticks on the other more spindly plastic projection.) In a pinch a Lambda type key could be adapted to suit the purpose. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Akai VX600 Identical to E-mu Emulator II and very close key to Korg Poly61 but some modifications required on the hook on the black key which projects sideways too much on poly. Usually old one can be cut/retro'd from old key I'm told. However I suspect these are same as the AX73 above! Photo courtesy of Thomas Rogers
Alesis QS7 keys I see are the same as QS6 and QS4 it appears as well as Peavey DPM and Kurzweil K2000 below. They also are very similar to Triton LE and I have modified them to work; cutting hole w/dremel for access to release lever in back. It's been a while so I'll have to get a refresher some day but for now note also that the General Music SK760 has keys of this type with the cut out for the lever catch in back, but they have a front that drops down to give a nice white smile in front. Otherwise identical I think. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Late Odyssey MkIII. Also fits Octave Kitten, later Axxe, Solus and SCI Pro-One. synthparts.com appears to have them in stock. Also Synthfool.com also has them he informs me (I saw an auction recently where someone had adapted original Pratt-read keys in place of the plastic ones. It worked fine. But for original parts hit Kevin up).
ARP Solina keys. I was pulling the caps off old organs keys for a while that fit. But now I have a scrap Crumar Stringman which also fits it! Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Casio CZ1000 appears to be same as ALL CZ full size including CZ-1000, CZ-3000, CZ-5000. SAVE a perhaps rare exception. SOmeone bought a CZ1000 thinking they would get keys off it. THe keys were totally different with Roland style springs! So BE SURE TO CHECK before ordering FZ keys...which appear to be modifiable to work. I had 2/2 success pulling weights out so far. Heat with hair dryer.:-). Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Casio FZ-1 Probably fits CZ-1 also as they are velocity sensitive. Possibly can be modified it appears to use this key for other CZ full size units by shaving the contact 'bumpers' off and replacing them with a rubber foot or something of the same thickness at the right spot to push down the contact on these non-velocity sensetive models. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Crumar DS-1 See service pic in DS-1/2 page for metal part of keys. These are also used I see in the Crumar Multiman, so possibly others of that series as well. These are kind of similar to Pratt-Read but they use glue instead of a screw to hold this top on the metal.
Mirage1 These are in the Ensoniq Mirage DSK-8 (metal case) (Link to Syntaur; thanks guys for making these available!) I have the bushings for these Pratt Read variations below.
Early Ensoniq These are in the Ensoniq Mirage DSK-1 (plastic case), ESQ-1, and Crumar Bit-One I hear. Others? (Link to Syntaur)
Later Ensoniq are in the ASR-10, EPS, EPS-16 Plus, SD-1, SQ-80, TS-10, VFX, VFX-sd. These appear to be yet another rendition of the keys used in Korg CX3's and Kawai K5000. Did Fatar make 'em? (Link to Syntaur)
Early Fatar These are in the Crumar Performer to at least the Trilogy and also some Siel like the Orechestra 2/OR-400 and ARP Quartet and SCI Prelude version of the same. Note metal clip that spring hangs from that slides in from top of that back piece. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Early 80's Mini Fatar These are in the Siel DK-70. Functionally same as Roland E35 it appears which also was used in E-14 E14 at least I see. Not sure what else now. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Early 80's Fatar Near same as Siel DK600, DK700, DK80, Crumar Bit99 (save old keyweight and a slight plastic cut required if you adapt one of these keys), E-Mu EMAX and EMAX II. Ensoniq SQ1(+)is adaptable also. NOTE: Noticeably browner 'black' keys on DK80 than DK600. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Kawai K3 Identical to Korg Lambda key with weights. Remove the weights and they work in AX80 and Lambda etc. but very difficult to do. Photo courtesy Kawai. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Kawai K5 Similar to K3 but different. Photo courtesy Kawai. They have replacements.
Kawai K5000 keys are also used in Quasimidi Raven, and possibly Cyber6. I see that the Nord Electro also uses a very similar key. and again Korg CX3 key with a different key weight area cover. photo courtesy of Ivan Schwartz See Kawai for replacements.
Korg EPS-1 uses this variation of the poly type panasonic key. As you see they are taller and lack the 'features', and rather are more flat on bottom. I don't currently have any of these and not sure what else uses them.(Photo by Ken Andrews)
Early Korg keys come in two minor variations and are used in 700/K-1, 700S, 800DV, 770, PS series, MS-10, MS-20 and Sigma. Also see later Moog synths above. Teisco SX-400, 100P, 100F, 110F, 60F and others? The early keys used in my Korg 700 are about a mm or so shorter than the ones I have in stock! So hey you can always file some off like someone did. The older ones have the key type STAMPED BY HAND it almost appears and the newer and slightly longer versions are identified in the molding process obviously. Well it's nice we have stock of the longer ones anyway since they can be shortened. :-) Once you file off the ends a bit it's not that noticeable. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Also Kevin Lightener bought Fred McNiff's stock though he is out of some types (Synthfool.com). Photo courtesy of Mattias Moller.
Korg CX3- NEW VERSION. Not aware of anything else that it fits exactly. K5000, Quasimidi Raven/Cyber6, Nord Electro and some Ensoniq are same except weight part which can often be modified with dremel tool etc. See below for pricing. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Korg DS8 keys are used in Fender Chroma Polaris, Kawai K1, K1 II, K4 and K11. Also E-mu Emulator II I'm told and Akai AX73 uses unweighted version. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Korg DSS-1 keys. Used also in DW8000. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Late 70's Korg keys for Delta, Lambda Trident and old CX3/BX3. With minor modification these also may be used in Akai AX80 and AX80 can always be subbed in for these units. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Korg Poly keys fit MonoPoly, PolySix, Poly61, Poly800, RK-100, Kawai SX-210/240, and MemoryMoog, and Oberheim OB-8 (OB8) after first few I hear which still used Pratt-Read. Also later SCI are nearly identical and can be substituted in a pinch. Akai AX60 is a slight modification again of the under bumpers but compatable it appears. The DS-8 above is weighted and has a slightly shorter and narrower hook (the poly one actually sticks out sideways at the bottom causing it to interfere with certain situations I'm told). Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Korg X3 keys. Appears identical to Yamaha Ridged keys below. However recipient of some of these tells me he had to do a slight mod with xacto knife to make springs set in deeper. When back end cracks I've gotten by super gluing the pieces back together and searing the edges of the crack with a hot soldering iron though. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Triton LE- keys are also used in Karma, Oberheim OB-12 and Waldorf MicroQ I'm told. Adaptable to Ensoniq Fizmo, SQ2, ALesis QS4 QS6 and QS7 and Peavey DPM2, DPM3, DPM3SE, DPMSi, and DPM4 with addition of weight THOUGH see Kurzweil K2000 keys for precise match. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Kurzweil K1000 keys have a similar design to the Crumar Performer in the metal clip used to hold the spring, but as you can see a weighted key of different design in other places. The K1200pro has the SAME KEY it appears...but uses a spring that hooks into the top hole instead of the spring/clip combination of the K1000 unit. It was sprung lighter which really annoyed me since double triggers would occur in my style of play, and I adjusted the springs...all 88..to my specs! It's been my main controller ever since. No idea where to get replacements for either of these. Hate to scrap such great sounding and usually repairable instruments to get keys.
Later Moog are used in Prodigy, Source, Rogue, Liberation, MG-1 and Opus-3. These are the same as the Korg PS, MS, and Sigma below in design. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Also Kevin LIghtener bought Fred's stock (Synthfool.com). Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Memorymoog keys are same in design as Korg Poly keys. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Oberheim Matrix 6 As you can see, this is totally identical to Kawai K3 without weighting. The weights can be removed usually from those keys with ease in a pinch. Or not someone said. Possibly Kawai upgraded the glue job. One can always use them in a less used place with a shortened spring I suppose w/out pulling the weight out. Pic courtesy of Martin Weetman
Peavey DPM SI Also fits Ensoniq Fizmo, SQ2, ALesis Quadrasynth QS4 QS6 and QS7 and Peavey DPM2, DPM3, DPM3SE, DPMSi, and DPM4. This key is very similar to Triton LE except it has a weight and a cut out in back to stick a screwdriver in to release the plastic 'catch' so that the back of the key can lift up. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Early Roland SH-1000(2nd version**), SH-1, SH-3(a), SH-5, JP-4, and probably ProMars take these. F Key #106-015 to Black key #106-023. Many early manuals only give number for the entire keyboard's they used. From those numbers (which only have suffix differences) and the fact that it is unlikely Roland would have introduced a new key for such similar products, I'd guess all the early ones take the same keys**. However the 2000 had after touch so, who knows! (** The earliest SH-1000's had a slightly different key design but the white's are compatable it appears but the blacks are not! ALso there were different springs for the black keys and all springs are the same on the later SH-1000's. ) Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Roland early 80's are in SH-101, Jupiter-8 JUNO-60, JUNO-6 and VP-330. Very minor difference to the keys used in Juno-106 in that 106 keys have less contact area where the 'webbing' of plastic is underneath towards the rear center. These APPEAR from drawing in manual to be IDENTICAL to the keys for JX-10 below, which are weighted. (I've tried to remove weights on the S-10 keys. Impossible on whites without a slow milling process. On blacks you can drill the lead out until it's so weak that you can remove it if you are good with a drill. SO in a pinch that's your options. ) Part #'s sequential ending on black key 106H032 Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Roland early-mid 80's I have confirmed that at least JUNO-106/HS-60, Jupiter 6, Alpha Juno 1, W-30, D-10, D-20, HS-10, EP-11/piano plus 11, and some JX-8P take these. (Some JX8P have keyweights. Always specify if your JX8P has weights or not. ) Part #22575140 for black key. Part #'s are always in a sequential order, like C/F key ends 136, according to service manual. Originally Juno keys it appears lack the understructure to support hitting of the second contact. So you can NOT take these keys and put them in a JX-8P without retroing them to create a flat surface extending further back underneath. At some point Roland likely began supplying only the JX-8P key for both synths. I've never tried them in the earlier yet units. But wait, it gets worse than that. A customer is requesting keys today who has a JX-8P with weighted keys! The type below should sub in fine for these though they have more understructure than needed. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland mid-late 80's are used in D-50, JX-10, S-10, and KR-33 take these. Part #22575212 for black key. Totally identical to JX-8P keys except with weights on SOME units. It appears Roland began weighting these and most I've run across so far have the weights. One person said theirs did not have them. So check before ordering. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland Later 80's weighted- The U-20, JD-800, D-70, Model 660, Model 760, KR-55, and KR-500. Part #22575261 on U20 for black key. I'm informed that these are very similar to others in design except they use some horrible epoxe that melted down in certain conditions often ruining things. Check for pink/red epoxe. I've never tried to fix..but it could be some adhesive that doesn't react could cover over the problem. These also had a guide bushing issue which Roland issued an extended one to fix. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland Later 80's unweighted- D-5, EP-3, EP-5 is same key as above w/out weight. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland weighted 90's- AT-50, AT-70, JV-80, JV-1000, XP-30, XP-60, XP-80, VK-1000. These also suffered some of the bad epoxe episode. Check for the pink/red epoxe. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland unweighted 90's- (same as pic above but without weight) These are used in the JX-1, JX-305, SK-88pro, JV-30, JV-35, JV-50, JV90, XP-50 and JW-50 it appears at least. JV-90 was errantly included in Roland's weight fall bulletin. Pay no attention because these keys have no weights. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Roland yoke hinge- These are used in the JP8000, XP-10. The VK-7 and VK77 is a weighted version of the same so you can always melt out the weight on a broken key and transfer it to one of these. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Roland Skirted A- EP-7, KR-350, KR-650, PT-8, PT-1000, These also suffered some of the bad epoxe episode. Check for the pink/red epoxe. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Roland Skirted B- AT-30, AT-80, AT-90, EP-9 also suffered from the red epoxe syndrome. Improved epoxe in AT's with "R" suffix and VK-77. Photo anyone? I believe I have a D for sale here only. I believe these are the ones that look almost identical to the but lack the extended front plastic 'weight cover'. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Roland E35 ~5.8" long Fatar mfg. Also fits Roland E-14, AX-7, PC-200 MkII, Clavia Nord lead 2x and Quasimidi Sirius and are functionally identical to Korg I series keyboards above. Nearly identical to Siel DK70 except without extension to hold spring actuator. Same save slight mold alteration of no consequence to Korg i3, i5s. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
SCI MultiTrak- These are identical to Korg DW-6000 and Akai X7000, and are used in Prophet 600 and newer Sequentials Circuits units it appears and also compatable with Korg Poly6/61. Note a slight but insignificant variation, at least when swapping keys into the Korg. I haven't tried it the other way but am sure it probably works fine. FIts all later SCI units P600 and on except T8 and VS probably. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions. Trouble with bad key contacts? Check the good news below!
Early Yamaha synth keys are found in the SY-1 and 2, CS-10, CS-30, CS-50, CS-60, and SS30. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Later Yamaha synth keys are found in the CS-5, CS-15, CS20M, CS-40M, CS-70M, CE20, and the SK series probably as the SK-20 has them. Also DX21, DX27. Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Yamaha Mini keys - used in DX100 and I don't know what else. Someone just told me Yamaha was able to special order these. I should maybe call them and get some too if they aren't too much just to have them stateside.
Yamaha DX7 keys are also in SY22, SY35, SY77, SY99, EX5, PF10 and Motif7 (and others that have semi-weighted keys). Korg M1, WS, 01/W, Trinity, Prophecy, and Triton except for LE and 88key also use a key that can be interchanged. Probably other boards as well. Let me know if you use one that has these that isn't listed.(PS. Yamaha still has KX88 keys) Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Yamaha Ridged press long contact strips rather than discrete key switches. Used in the DX11, DS-55, S30, SY55, V50 and AN1x. Also some combo organs and consumer electric pianos from the late 80's to early 90's like ME-6, HE-8, ME-50, U-1000, EL-50 and spring said YPR9 so possibly it also. Also PSR9000 and Korg X3. Furthermore Yamaha switched part numbers on the black keys to a near enough identical design used in the YPP15 I know. The spring angle is slightly different. The white keys for the YPP have a full length skirt in front though. They could be chopped down in a pinch I suppose. Thanks Joseph Rooney for the info/pic! Check for price and stock notes below Ordering Instructions.
Below are new and used replacement keys that I have in stock usually (Check with me before Payment). See price schedule below. Add $4.00 for up to 3 weighted or 6 unweighted keys then write to get actual shipping on more IN US. ($6.00 if you are outside the USA.) You may contact me by e-mail to set up an order. PLEASE PUT (in the subject line) "PARTS ORDER" so that it gets delivered to the right folder. DO NOT SEND MAIL TO THE GMAIL ACCOUNT! It's getting too confusing keeping this stuff straight in my general mailbox. ALSO PLEASE do not send until you have the money for the order or ask about things you aren't committed to buy because it just sets there and clutters up my mailbox. I'm doing this more as a service to the synth community and it just gets a little overwhelming at times to where I'm forgetting things etc. Thank you.
Payment instructions:
1) If you can use paypal, then send 'direct w/d from bank account' OR existing balance payments to sounddoctorin@imt.net AND THEN SELECT "personal" tab because technically with key orders all you are paying for is the shipping and my time to fish the key and set it all up. We aren't really selling goods in that way or services the way they view that. So it's more of a reimbursement which is ok by them as I understand it. But PLEASE be sure all Credit/Debit Card# sourced payments (via PAYPAL ONLY..I don't have a credit card machine here ) to sounddoctorin@gmail.com ! Oh and ALWAYS notify me when you send payments (especially to the imt addy) because for some reason I'm not getting them always from Paypal causing needless delays. Thanks.
2) If you want to send a cash check of some kind, us this address and be SURE to include YOUR address AND the product description you are purchasing with all needed details. (IE. I get lots of orders sometimes and it's easy to forget and mix things up)
NOTE Regarding insurance/tracking: For small items like these I normally use just usps unless requested otherwise. Particularly internationally prices can be very high to get tracking/insurance. If you want other service please let me know but I've saved people accumulatively thousands of dollars by just shipping the cheap way. To my knowledge only one thing seems to have disappeared so far out of many hundred things shipped for people. So unless you want to spend time pursuing a claim on a 10 dollar item or whatever it's just not worth it. In fact if you aren't strapped for funds or something, it makes no sense to insure anything provided you pack well. It's a gamble that you lose on in the long run.
Akai AX73- (Unweighted version of DS8 shown) . PRICE: negotiate; I'll have to remove a weight from DS8 key or you can purchase one of those below and do it yourself.
ARP Solina String Ensemble- Fits Crumar Stringman also. PRICE: $8 each, $16 for end key
Casio FZ-1- Fits CZ-1 also. PRICE: $8 each, $16 for end key. Replacement instructions!
Casio CZ3000- These keys I believe fit CZ5000 and CZ1000. Shorter and w/out second contact bumper but otherwise identical looking to FZ-1 above. Price $5 ea.
Early Fatar- These are in the Crumar Performer, Stratus, Trilogy and also some Siel like the Orechestra 2/OR-400 and ARP Quartet and SCI Prelude version of the same. Ask and I'll include spring/clip if you need. PRICE: $10 each, $18 for end key
Farfisa Professional- We now have the dark grey and white reverse Farfisa keys used PRICE: $12.00 for non-blem ones each (May have a 'deal' in a key you can get by with or do minor touch up on etc. unit was beat)
Kawai K3 - New keys. Price varies depending on type. Write.
Kawai K5000 - New Keys. $6.00 each. $10.00 for prime (highest wider key)
Korg NEW CX3- New keys. Not aware of anything else that it fits exactly. K5000 close. PRICE: $4.00 each (I only have white keys in stock at the moment)
Korg DSS-1- These also fit DW8000. PRICE: $7 each and end $14 ea.
Korg early Korg fit near as I know everthing up to Sigma and later Moog products except memorymoog. Also old Teisco synths. Price $9.00 each except A's which are 10.00, and D and G are 13.00 and $22.00 end ones when available.
Korg DS8- Similar to many other units but it has keyweights and is thicker than the Poly61 for instance. These appear identical to Kawai K1, K1-II, K11 and K4 keys however. PRICE: $5 each normal whites, $6 each blacks, and $10 for end ones when available.
Korg I3- I5S and XD5; Like Roland E-35 and AX-7. $5 ea
Korg Lambda- Fits Delta and also OLD CX-3, Oberheim Matrix 6 and Akai AX80 w/pad. PRICE: $9 ea. and $18 for end ones if available. (I currently have AX80 keys also so no pad needed).
Korg M1- Same as Yamaha DX7 below but also Korg Triton, 01/W, Wavestation, Prophecy, Trinity and maybe other Korg products. PRICE:$6 ea. and $10 for end ones SEE DX REPAIR HELP BELOW FOR BROKEN KEY HINGES, typically on black keys from sliding too hard :-).
Korg PolySix/61/M- See SCI Multi-Trak also. PRICE: $4 ea. $12 prime C's
Korg Triton LE- Look similar in design to some PSR keys. $4 ea.
Peavey DPM SI - Also fits Ensoniq Fizmo, SQ2, ALesis QS4 QS6 and QS7 and Peavey DPM2, DPM3, DPM3SE, DPMSi, and DPM4. Weighted version of Triton LE + cut for removal tool. $6 ea. $12 for end key.
Pratt-Reed keys - Fit most early american synths. CHeck list above. -$8 ea, $16 end when available and $7 for caps only when I have them for that key. Call or write.
Roland JP4- These apparently fit all Roland synths from '78 and eariler. PRICE: $10 ea. $20 end ones
Roland JUNO-106 - (see pic of S-10 w/out weight below). Fits D-10, D-20, SH-101, JUNO-6, JUNO-60, Jupiter-8, (Jupiter 6?), JX-3P with minor undercarriage modifications as I recall. We've found several scrap units finally and can offer a reduced PRICE: $6 ea. and $15 for end keys when available
Roland S-10- Fits most JX-8P (some I believe are unweighted so check!) Alpha Juno 1 and 2, D-50, D-70, JD-800 JX-10, KR-33, KR-55, KR-500, Model 660, Model 760, MKB-200, and SK-7(P). PRICE: $6 ea. $15 end ones if available. (I have two special JX10 right end keys, no special left ones now)
Roland D-5- THese keys I had previously thought were the same as other D series. THey actually are the same as U-20 except that it is weighted. I now have both of these in limited stock brand new! $5 ea.
Roland U20- Fit Rhodes Model 660, Model 760, JD800, D-70 etc. $6 ea. and $12.00 for C' (top)
Roland JV80- Fits AT-50, AT-70, JV-80, JV-1000, XP-30, XP-60, XP-80, VK-1000. $6 ea. and $12 for prime keys when available.
Roland JV90- (Pic shows weight but these are unweighted version of same) Fits JX-1, JX-305, SK-88pro, JV-30, JV-35, JV-50, JV90, XP-50 and JW-50 at least. $5 ea. and $11 for prime when available.
Roland E35- Fits Roland E-14, AX-7 keytar also. Interchangeable with Korg i3/i5S and XD-5 above. Some New white keys. $5 ea
Roland EP-7-Also fits KR-350, KR-650, PT-8, PT-1000. New white keys. $5 ea
Roland EP-9- Not sure what else they fit. $5 ea.
Roland JP8000- Also fits XP-10 and RS-5. xfer weight for VK-7 and VK77. New white keys only. $5 ea
Roland RD250- Also fits KR-4700, MK-80 and MK-60. xfer weight for VK-7 and VK77. New Black keys only. $8 ea
SCI MultiTrak- Identical to Korg DW6000 and is for all purposes compatable with Korg Poly6/61. Note a slight but insignificant variation, at least when swapping keys into the Korg. I haven't tried it the other way but am sure it probably works fine. Anyway this fits ALL later SCI keyboards P600 on save T8 and VS it appears. PRICE: $6 ea.
Siel DK70- Similar to Roland E35 above but with extension for spring actuator under loop. Used but good keys. PRICE: $5 each.
Siel DK80 or DK600- Have all but high C only DK600. E-mu EMAX II appears same. Ensoniq SQ-1(+) also if modified underneath. (Melt piece that holds spring guide to a narrower width w/soldering iron tip holder etc. then grind/file to shape/length to allign holder. Not necessary to remove extra part on SQ1+ at least) NOTE:DK600 keys I also have and blacks are different. DK80's are a more brownish color and DK600 glossy black. Specify which you want! Bushings also available. PRICE: $6 ea. END/Prime key $15.00
Yamaha Old CS - Fits all older CS series except 80. (CS-10, CS-30, CS-50, CS-60) Also SY-1 and SY-2. Price: $10 ea. $20 for END/prime key
Yamaha CS-20M- Same as all SK and CS-5, CS-15, Cs-20M, CS-40M, and maybe CS-70M as well as CE-20 and some others probably.. PRICE: new- $10 ea. if available good used- $7 ea. $14 for END/prime key
Yamaha DX7- Fits SY77, EX5, and motif7 at least and See Korg M1 above. PRICE:$6 ea. and $10 for end ones. SEE DX REPAIR HELP BELOW FOR BROKEN KEY HINGES, typically on black keys from sliding too hard :-).
Yamaha SY55- Fits Yamaha DX11, DS55, V50, S30, DSR2000, YS200, AN1x, Korg X3, Korg 707, and many Yamaha combo organs etc. as seen above under "Ridged". PRICE:$5 ea. $10 for prime.
NOTE: I now have access to a lot of scrap units including a General Music and a range of casio and yamaha keyboards that aren't worth fixing. If you need any parts let me know and I'll see if we have a match for you! I'll be listing a bonepile page here soon. Also check out the video showing our Vox and Farfisa inventory on youtube! Let us know if you need anything from that. Call Paul at 720-849-2323 to negotiate prices and I'll try to get out there asap and see what we can get together for you.
I'll also add that we now have A set of Fender Rhodes 73 keys. I know there are many different ones but I'll be posting measurements when I get a chance so that you can just take a caliper and see if you have the same keys. Also We're scrapping several Farfisa and vox units. We have a wood key Jennings Continental that has keys in useable shape most of the way across. And a Clavinet movement. Farfisa VIP345, Professional Piano, Artist Piano for scrap. Most of the valuable chips were in the 345.
I stock a good number of used keys and some new, all of which you can see an example of a normal white key in these images. Pricing structure is typically just sub retail for more common keys (since although they are used, all the keys are in practically new condition). Ones which are no longer commercially available however special end keys are at least 2x the price. Also more rare keys are scaled up with the value of the synth in mind.
Hot off the press! I've managed to finally get the ultimate solution together for replacing the contacts in the common keyboards of the 80's and beyond which have the rubber 'bubble' strips with the little round carbon impregnated rubber contacts in them which are pressed against open gold traces on a circuit board normally. A few years ago I seemed to be having good success using the cleaning and 'trimming' techniques discussed in my general tips section. However I ran into a polysix that ate many many hours and still wouldn't all work right! It kept reverting in a short time to contacts that would go intermittent. Very frustrated I began to contemplate a solution.
My experience with the 'conductive paint' was hit and miss. I'd seen ones I had to tear back open and hadn't really had a high degree of success. It initially would work usually. Sometimes uneven application would create problems also though. And of course there's the economic factor. If you do an entire keyboard it costs about 40.00 plus your time mixing the stuff and waiting for it to dry and hoping you don't have to redo any! (Unless you happen to have multiple keyboards that you can do within 72 hours. THen yeah I guess you can have at it and do as many as you can for 40.00 But for most techs they run into a keyboard with the problem and they just need to get it done and move on...not leave it in the stack somewhere until they have 10 of them to do :-) ) SO I engineered a much better solution.
Using a material that was originally designed for NASA, we've constructed disks that have a quality 3M adhesive backing. In my first several units which I hand cut I had a couple keys that were iffy and I simply stuck a new disk on and they were perfect. They've been in operation with customers for many months now with no complaints. THe material is much more stable appearing than the original material. And the electrical characteristics are identical pretty much. Around 200 ohms when I measure with my probes which is really excellent. It's only .0016" thick material so you don't have to worry about the spacing from what I've seen. Near always it's about .015 to .020" so about a factor of 10 clearance!
I've also tried this on the Peavey DPM3SE and it worked great! You need twice as many disks of course since there are two per key on velocity sensetive units. The Kawai K1, K4, Korg DS8, Chroma Polaris and Kurzweil K1000/1200 and some others I think use concentric ring contacts. One could use the disk on the middle contact but it will obviously affect velocity scaling so..not recommended unless you want to do that. We may create a die to cut the outer ring part eventually if demand is sufficient. However I've usually been able to clean these and they just work so it's not a real priority I don't think. But the Peavey DPM2, DPM 3(SE), DPM SI, and Kurzweil K2000 use the side by side contacts so two disks for those will get you back in good shape! And they do fail sometimes so this is good news.
Most commonly we see failures on the Korg Polysix, Poly 61, Poly61M, DW6000, Memorymoog, Oberheim OB8 OB-8, Sequential Circuits Prophet 600, but also Six-Trak, Split-8 (Pro-8) (and ..I can't recall what the setup is on Multi-trak since it's velocity sensetive and I haven't seen failures on those anyway), Possibly MAX also uses those contacts and were all made by Panasonic I believe. Oh and the Akai AX60, AX73, AX80, VX600 probably and X7000 I believe all have this type also. The Roland Juno 106, JX3P, JX8P, JX10, Alpha Juno 1 and Juno 2, D50, D10, D20, D5, U20, JD800, and probably a bunch of other ROland products have compatible contacts with these disks also! Most Yamaha products either use the metal contacts like the DX7 which also many Korgs from M1 on use. But also many Yamaha's use contact strips that are just one long hemisphere of conductive film or something. I haven't tried using the disks on this. Not sure how well they'd stick since it's not a flat surface. But I'll likely try it at some point since some of these fail and I haven't found a good solution. Some like DX100 are totally unavailable replacement parts. So it'd be worth a shot. Maybe somebody else can try that and let me know.
INSTALLATION IS EASY! Well..kinda. I'm thinking of making an alignment tool. But for now you just take a sharp blade and carefully get the adhesive sticking on the edge of it. Then lay the new disk where you need it on the old contacts and carefully with a clean fingernail tag it down. It can be a bit of a challenge at first and occasionally a disk will go sailing like a frisbee if you handle it wrong :-). But that's why we're selling kits of 75 of them to start with for $26.00 including shipping. Get your orders in and I'll try to have the first lot of them ready to go out later in 2009! I'm about to do yet another polysix with them. My own Mono/Poly also needs a few done, my P600, my Memorymoog, poly61M, and even the Kawai SX210 I think has one that is going. Did I mention that I'm happy to finally get something that will fix all this stuff the right way!!? :-) Just use Ordering Instructionsfor keys above and ignore the shipping amounts.
WARNING: If you have trouble with contacts not working after installation it might be what I experienced tonight. I could see nothing whatsoever visually wrong with the gold contacts on a polysix. But the whole lower half save a few notes didn't work *at all* after installing new contacts. Everything was in tolerence so I just figured I had to scrub the gold with breath and paper towel. That eventually did the trick. Some..film I guess was on that half of the keyboard. Those were the ones that were worst before I put in the contacts. Hmm. Works great now anyway.
